Beauti Talk with Dr. Zion Ko Lamm
As a board-certified Internal Medicine physician and skincare influencer, what are the most dangerous TikTok skincare trends that people should avoid, and why?
The impact of viral trends on consumer behavior and public health can be profound, underscoring the significant influence of social media on contemporary practices. The resurgence of hyaluron pens, devices designed for at-home administration of dermal fillers, exemplifies a concerning trend due to the potential risks associated with unsupervised use. While the most common complications may manifest as facial nodules or lumps, the spectrum of adverse effects is notably broader and more severe. These include, but are not limited to, vascular occlusion leading to necrosis, visual impairment or blindness, cerebrovascular accidents, scarring, ocular damage attributable to the needle-free device's pressure, cutaneous discoloration, and hypersensitivity reactions.
This trend underscores the critical need for heightened awareness and regulatory scrutiny to mitigate the risks posed by such devices when used outside professional medical settings. The trend of using household items like baking soda and toothpaste in skincare routines, notably for face masks and acne treatment, warrants caution. Despite its exfoliating appeal, baking soda can disrupt the skin's pH balance and compromise the skin barrier, leading to irritation and sensitivity. Similarly, applying toothpaste to acne can offer temporary drying but risks causing perioral dermatitis or fluoride dermatitis around the mouth, conditions that can be more severe and harder to treat than acne itself.
In your experience, what unexpected methods for treating acne have you encountered in Korea that differ from those commonly used in the U.S.? How effective are these methods?
While the core treatments for moderate to severe acne may align closely, a notable divergence in methodology and emphasis exists. In short, Korea's nuanced approach to acne is distinctively characterized by a holistic and preventive strategy, whereas the U.S. is more reactive.
The Korean skincare philosophy emphasizes maintaining and fortifying the skin barrier, reflecting a broader understanding of skin health as foundational to treating and preventing acne. Ingredients such as snail mucin, Centella Asiatica, propolis, and mugwort are pivotal in this approach. These components are celebrated for their soothing and healing properties and their ability to enhance the skin's resilience against environmental stressors and irritations. In contrast, while effective in acne treatment, the prevalent use of potent acids and aggressive exfoliants in the U.S. can compromise the skin's natural barrier and increase sensitivity. The Korean method, focusing on gentle, restorative care, offers a complementary perspective that prioritizes long-term skin health and balance.
What is exciting are the several innovative Korean skincare solutions, such as pimple patches, that have successfully permeated the global market, including the U.S. The efficacy of these methods, particularly in the context of their gentle nature and emphasis on skin barrier integrity, has garnered widespread acclaim, marking a significant shift in how acne can be approached and managed across different cultures.
Given your Korean heritage, what unique cold-weather skincare tips and routines have you learned from your family or Korean culture?
Drawing from Korean skincare traditions, particularly suited for cold weather, the emphasis remains on nurturing and protecting the skin's barrier, just as with acne. The regimen Korean Mom and I typically use begins with double cleansing, using an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based one to clean the skin while preserving its natural oils thoroughly. Hydration is then layered through the application of toners, essences, and serums to ensure deep moisturization without overwhelming the skin, a practice I think is more critical in the dry, harsh winter months. The occasional use of hydrating sheet masks enriched with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides further aids in this intensive moisture infusion. Transitioning to richer moisturizers and incorporating overnight sleeping packs during colder periods helps maintain a healthy barrier, locking in moisture effectively. Additionally, maintaining ambient humidity, practicing gentle exfoliation to encourage cell turnover and not preceding sun protection are all integral components of a holistic cold-weather skincare routine inspired by Korean cultural practices.
How do you believe TikTok skin influencers influence the beauty business while positively impacting people's lives?
TikTok "skin-fluencers" have significantly transformed the beauty industry by bridging the gap between an overwhelming, oversaturated market and the need for authentic, empowering knowledge about skincare. Historically, the narrative around skincare products was predominantly shaped by the brands themselves, often resulting in a one-sided flow of information. However, with the advent of social media, knowledge has been democratized.
Our goal has been to educate the audience about skincare and advocate for transparency and efficacy, thereby holding brands to higher standards. This shift has empowered consumers to make more informed choices, ensuring their investments in skincare are guided by genuine needs and values rather than just marketing hype. In this way, we are not only influencing trends within the beauty business. Still, we also positively impact people's lives by fostering a more informed, engaged, and discerning community of skincare users.
How can individuals transition their skincare routines for the colder weather using affordable drugstore skincare products in winter?
Choosing products made by trustworthy brands with the right ingredients allows you to effectively adapt your skincare routine for winter without overspending. The key is to find a rich moisturizer that can provide deep hydration and reinforce the skin's barrier against harsh winter conditions. Look for products containing ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin, known for their moisture-retaining properties and ability to strengthen the skin's natural defenses. Ceramides, in particular, are crucial in maintaining the skin's barrier, preventing moisture loss, and protecting against environmental irritants.
Incorporating a rich moisturizer into your daily routine, complemented by a gentle cleanser and a hydrating serum, can significantly enhance your skin's health during winter. Also, remember to continue applying sunscreen, as UV exposure remains a concern even in colder, less sunny conditions.
As a board-certified Internal Medicine physician and skincare influencer, what are the most dangerous TikTok skincare trends that people should avoid, and why?
The impact of viral trends on consumer behavior and public health can be profound, underscoring the significant influence of social media on contemporary practices. The resurgence of hyaluron pens, devices designed for at-home administration of dermal fillers, exemplifies a concerning trend due to the potential risks associated with unsupervised use. While the most common complications may manifest as facial nodules or lumps, the spectrum of adverse effects is notably broader and more severe. These include, but are not limited to, vascular occlusion leading to necrosis, visual impairment or blindness, cerebrovascular accidents, scarring, ocular damage attributable to the needle-free device's pressure, cutaneous discoloration, and hypersensitivity reactions. This trend underscores the critical need for heightened awareness and regulatory scrutiny to mitigate the risks posed by such devices when used outside professional medical settings. The trend of using household items like baking soda and toothpaste in skincare routines, notably for face masks and acne treatment, warrants caution. Despite its exfoliating appeal, baking soda can disrupt the skin's pH balance and compromise the skin barrier, leading to irritation and sensitivity. Similarly, applying toothpaste to acne can offer temporary drying but risks causing perioral dermatitis or fluoride dermatitis around the mouth, conditions that can be more severe and harder to treat than acne itself.
Could you debunk some of the biggest skincare myths circulating on social media and share evidence-based information (names can be anonymous) to set the record straight?
Collagen's role in skincare and supplementation has been a subject of debate, oscillating between being hailed as indispensable and dismissed as ineffective.
A pivotal study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020) clarifies this issue, revealing that hydrolyzed collagen supplements offer tangible benefits over placebos. Specifically, they are shown to significantly improve skin hydration, enhance elasticity, and diminish the appearance of wrinkles (PMID 32436266). This evidence suggests that collagen supplementation can contribute positively to skin health.
However, the beneficial effects of collagen are not as straightforward as merely replenishing the skin's collagen stores or supplying the raw materials for its synthesis. The reality is more complex but touches on the beauty of human physiology. A systematic review and meta-analysis in the International Journal of Dermatology (2021) concluded that collagen-derived peptides are ingested and absorbed as signals indicating skin damage. This perception prompts the body to intensify its repair and regeneration processes. It stimulates fibroblasts to increase the production of the extracellular matrix and activates regulatory T cells to enhance skin health (PMID 33742704). This complex interplay underscores the sophisticated mechanisms through which collagen supplementation can influence skin health beyond the simplistic view of direct collagen replenishment.
Can you share some simple yet effective new tricks and secret recipes for achieving radiant skin that your audience might not have heard of before?
Shower Sheet Masking: The steam from the shower enhances the mask's hydrating and nourishing effects, allowing for deeper penetration of its active ingredients. This method saves time and maximizes the skin's receptiveness to the mask's benefits, promoting a more radiant complexion. Retinol 'Sandwich' Technique. This approach involves layering your retinol application between two layers of moisturizer. Known as the 'Retinol Sandwich,' this method has been observed to maintain the efficacy of retinol in enhancing skin texture and reducing signs of aging while mitigating potential irritation. The moisturizer acts as a buffer, reducing the intensity of direct retinol contact with the skin, thereby minimizing common side effects such as dryness and sensitivity.
How do you balance your time between being a first-time mom, seeing patients in your medical practice, and creating engaging content for your social media platforms?
Balancing the demands of being a first-time mother, attending to my patients in the medical practice, and crafting engaging content for my social media followers has been a challenge. Achieving harmony among these significant aspects of my life requires meticulous time management and clear prioritization. My strategy involves eliminating non-essential activities, or the 'empty calories' of my day, to ensure that my time is spent as productively as possible.
To navigate these challenges, I segment my day into dedicated blocks of time, each allocated to a specific area of my life—my medical practice, social media engagement, time with my child, or moments with my family. I commit to being fully present and focused on the task or people at hand. This means when I'm with my patients, my attention is solely on providing the best care possible; when creating content for social media, I'm dedicated to delivering value and engagement to my followers; and when I'm with my child and family, I ensure they receive my undivided attention and presence.
This disciplined approach to time allocation allows me to fulfill my professional responsibilities effectively while cherishing and nurturing my role as a mother and a family member/friend. It's about embracing each role with commitment and maximizing every interaction and responsibility I undertake.
What are your top 5 skincare rules for individuals with sensitive skin, and how can they effectively implement them into their routines?
1) Do No Harm. Opt for skincare products free from alcohol, fragrances, and harsh exfoliants, which can aggravate sensitive skin. When incorporating active ingredients, introduce them gradually to assess your skin's tolerance.
2) Embrace Simplicity: A skincare routine for sensitive skin should be straightforward, focusing on cleansing, moisturizing, and UV protection. Master these foundational steps before cautiously adding new active ingredients, one at a time, to avoid overwhelming your skin.
3) Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Maintaining a robust skin barrier is the cornerstone of effective skincare, particularly for sensitive types. Choose hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic moisturizers formulated with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide to enhance the skin's barrier function and hydration levels and reduce inflammation. Apply your moisturizer immediately following cleansing to maximize moisture retention.
4) Protect Diligently: Shielding sensitive skin from the sun's harmful rays is crucial. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 daily, favoring mineral-based formulas with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to minimize the risk of irritation.
5) Enjoy the Process: Your skincare routine should be a pleasurable, stress-free part of your day dedicated to self-care and relaxation, not a burdensome task.
As someone featured in prestigious publications and has built a solid social media presence, what drives you to continue educating and empowering your audience about skincare and health issues?
My motivation to educate and empower my audience about skincare and health stems from a deeply rooted sense of community that has evolved. What began as a creative outlet has transformed into a dynamic, reciprocal relationship with my followers. Their invaluable advice and support, particularly during pivotal moments such as my motherhood journey, have significantly enriched my life. This connection is further deepened by my experiences as a physician, where recurring conditions and questions among patients highlight common concerns and underscore the need for accessible, reliable information. Observing these patterns has instilled in me a profound sense of responsibility. With my professional training, firsthand insights from patient interactions, and the reach of my platform, I am uniquely positioned to contribute meaningfully to this dialogue. Addressing physical and psychological well-being issues has reinforced my commitment to this role. The opportunity to be a trusted voice in the skincare and health space, guiding and participating in others' skin and wellness journeys, is a privilege I hold in high regard.
